Up Do with a Twist




There are many different types of hair texture from straight to curly.   Also depending on the diameter of the hair, gives you the density of the hair which determine’s your texture.  The expression is an “old” expression and maybe some of you have heard it before, “you have good hair”.  It is implied that long wavy hair is the “good hair”, and curly or kinky isn’t.   In 2011 Chris Rock, the comedian, wrote a movie called “Good Hair”.  It viewed black people perception of what “good hair” is to versus bad hair.  We must understand and teach others and know for yourselves that “good hair” is healthy hair that has shine, luster, good elasticity and styled whatever way you are comfortable with.

Hair is made up of moisture and protein and the structure is the following:

cuticle – outer layer, creates shine

cortex  -  in layer which is re-arranged when you



The only thing that will change the structure of your hair is HEAT & CHEMICALS.  e.g..  if you are not protecting your hair and you keep putting a “hot” iron on your hair it will change the texture of your hair.


What type of Hair type do you have?  Get in pairs and compare each others hair.


Straight Hair

Has no curl or wave and contrary to what people think black girls can have straight hair.  Usually it is very shiny because the cuticle layer lies flat and smooth.  (asian hair is a good example)



Wavy Hair 

Has a definite “S” pattern to the hair  and it also has a tendency to be frizzy.

(people who have straight hair sometimes don’t realize that their hair is actually wavy).

You can do a test strand test by wetting a large section approximate 2×2 and then putting conditioner on it.  When it drys most of time there is a wave in the hair and sometimes when people see it they embrass it and start wearing it.  But usually, you need hair products to help define that curl.



Curly Hair

Is a definite loop “S” pattern.  It is usally very soft.  Curly hair is not shiny or straight or wavy because the cuticles does not lie flat



Kinky Hair

Hair that is full strong thick and it will make any hairstylist look great.  I always call it the “Oprah Hair” and unfortunately I’ve seen many young ladies have “busted Oprah Hair”; because they over abuse it because usually they have so much.  They don’t realize it until they wake up one day and it is not what they remembered.




Coily Hair

Is similar to curly hair, just more tightly curled.  This hair can break off easily when combed; because it appears to be tough, and it is.  It has the least amount of cuticle layer which means it is the weakest and has a dull appearance.  I find if I keep the hair natural or use a keratin treatment the hair grows shiny and healthy





Hair Growth


As a hairstylist I’m always getting the question, “how can I get my hair to grow”.  Just by combing our hair there is friction being done to our hair and depending how we care for it will make the difference between healthy hair and damaged hair.


There are 3 cycles in hair growth:

Anagen is hair growing (approximately 2 to 6 years)

Catagen is hair transitioning (approximately 1 to 2 weeks)

Telogen is shedding of hair (approximately 5 to 6 weeks)

Anagen returns back to hair growing


The facts of an individual on how long their hair will grow and how fast can depend on the following: DNA, where they live, live foods vs. process foods, hair products, extensions and weaves, chemical services, hair color, and a person’s physiological disposition.  The list is long.  Yes, stress also determines hair growth.  There is a diagnosis that Dr. David A. Whiting refer to as Alopecia Areata, which causes clean bald spots on the head.   He said, “Emotional stress has long been considered precipitating factor in many causes alopecia aerate

”  I think it is really cool that God thinks about the inside of us more than the outside.  A number of times when our hair is falling out and not growing or our nails look brittle and dry.

We have to be thankful because our body is telling us something is wrong.  It’s the same thing when we get a cold and were not feeling well our body is telling us something.

I’m tired

Not drinking enough water

Not absorbing my nutrients from my food

Not getting oxgeyen in my body from lack of exercise.


I’ve seen some people frustrated and can’t find the answers, but I tell them that it is a good thing that the signs are there that something is wrong.  I recommend you see a professional doctor get blood work or just start eliminating bad foods from your diet and start eating 70% fresh food, healthy fats such as avocdoes, nuts, oilive oil,  and; eliminate soda, fried foods and take a multi-vitamin and a HairSkinNail vitamin and most of the time there are some results.


Sometimes we are just not giving all the food our organs need, especially when stress or unfortunate adversity happens such as loss of a family member, broke up with a boyfriend, getting ready to go to college, studing for a test…. the list can be endless.  So as a good maintenance for hair instead of worrying about what to put on top of your hair always try to eat from all food categories that you see in Chapter 6


Have everyone write down a hair story:



 Ask them to write what they will do different to get a better result:

(Recommendations if you have a hairstylist or a barber this would be great to introduce them to talk about hair products and making professional haircare choices)



Hair Products



Nowadays there are so many different types of hair products so the main thing we will discuss is understanding the categories the products should go in and also the many different types of ingredients in products and the best way to read a label





When you have a chemical in your hair shampooing and conditioning are very important.

Once upon a time you use to shampoo your hair every two week and then put grease on your scalp, but nowadays there are better shampoos available and now we know that too much grease and oil on the scalp clogs the follicle.  (Grease cannot condition your hair)

Shampoo should contain keratin, hydrolyzed vegetable protein, panthenol and aloe vera.  These ingredients should be near the beginning of the sentence with the ingredients.

Dry Scalp and Dandruff

Can be caused by the following:

Poor circulation the scalp (exercise)


Improper diet and stress


Dry scalp seeing dandruff (white flakes)



Conditioners have large molecules in the ingredients; so it doesn’t really change the texture of the hair.  It will make the hair feel better for a short time and help comb out unwanted hair.  The 100 hairs you loose every day will shed on your comb.

Heavy greasy dandruff where bleeding occurs can be a form of seborrhea and can be contagious because of a bacteria; it should be seen by a dermatologist.  All combs and brushes and hair implements should not be shared with anyone.


Ringworm (Tinea) is a fungus that can appear on the scalp and skin.  The small white or red patches are highly contagious and can lead to hair loss.  This also requires medical attention.

For dry scalp you can also use Tea tree oil which I’ve heard is helpful.



Hair Product.



Don’t be a product “Junkie”.  Don’t purchase products that are “quick fixes” and products that claim to give unbelievable results.  Because it’s probably unbelievable.

“Patent leather looking” hairstyles all of the time will quickly lead to unhealthy hair.

Treatments are mainly to be done in the salon because the professional can assess if you need more protein or moisture depending on the condition of your hair.

You can use too much protein and then your hair will become dry, brittle and adventually break.  If you feel you need a treatment and your at the store and want to be safe look for a color treatment conditioner; since it will usually cover moisture and protein.

Keratin treatments are very popular.  It is very important that you do your homework before you decide to do this and get a couple of consulations.  There are many different types of strengths, so you have many many options.  It seals the cuticle and supports from becoming frizzy especially in hot weather or when you maybe in an activity like basketball, baseball or gymnastics.






What is a chemical?

Name 5 different types of Chemicals that are used in the Salon


Hair relaxers

Sodium Hydroxide

Calcium Hydroxide



Hair Color


Semi Permanent

Demi Permanent


Vegetable dye



Perm.. If you have straight hair and you want a curl or a wave.  You would permanently choose a size of a rod in your hair to determine how curly you want your hair or how wavy.

No-lye.  What does this mean?  Does anyone use a no-lye relaxer.  Why do you use it?

Once again advertisers and companies get together to try to sell you something because it sounds appealing to the ear.  No-lye relaxer’s is a “lie”, it is a lye.  (lye is in a small container)


Sodium Hydroxide Relaxers is healthier for the hair, but should always be done by a professional because overlapping can cause breakage.  If you have extremely sensitive scalp, it would apply.  This is approximately 3% of my clients who would fit in this category.


A hair diary would be a wonderful experience and activity.  It is best for them to start when

they are at the age of 75 years old.


Unfortunately a number of young people are losing their hair due to extensions and chemical damage.  Bringing in hair books and discussing celebrities hair styles can be a fun activity since it is all a fantasy because what you see in the pictures is airbrushed .